We sailed the short distance from PSV to Hillsborough, Carriacou, where everyone but us (alone at last!) went ashore. Here, Jerry and Viv cleared us into Grenada and picked up some provisions. Then we moved across Hillsborough Harbour to the uninhabited sand spit aptly named Sandy Island. Sandy Island is a perfect mini-island of white sand and a few palms and sea grapes. We swam around, and enjoyed a very brief walk around the entire island. At this time, Sandy Island's existence is very fragile, and the government has limited the number of boats which can anchor off so as to ensure the island doesn't wash away. Surprisingly, we were all alone on the island.
Sandy Island, just opposite Hillsborough Harbour in Carriacou, is an island escapist's fantasy.
As the day's light started to wane, we made for Carriacou's Tyrrell Bay before sunset. The bay is edged with mangroves and a few boat wrecks litter the bottom, making for interesting diving and fishing (in which we didn't partake). We crossed paths with the Boreal crew, and Viv went ashore to pick up a menu from Scraper's from which we would be asked to pre-order tonight's dinner. At 8 p.m. we went ashore for drinks, served up by the blind barman, followed by a delicious dinner eaten at picnic tables. While we dined on tender conch and fish, mosquitoes dined on mine and Viv's tender flesh. Afterwards, we returned to My Baby II for nightcaps of Caribbean coffee.
Friday dawned as our last full day at sea. With a full day ahead of us, we made an early start from Carriacou, encountering brisk winds and medium seas all the way to Ile de Ronde. Here we made a quick stop while Rick and Viv tried to dinghy over to Kick 'Em Jenny for some snorkeling, but they found the going too rough, instead snorkeling at Ile de Ronde. Today's lunch was prepared by Jerry, as Jerry and Viv have exchanged roles for the day. Jerry served up grilled fish, fish cakes and salad, making the most of the wonderful dorado we had caught. To this day, it's been rare to find fish as tasty and satisfying.
After lunch, we made for Grenada, with heavy winds and seas. We were accompanied by a school of dolphin, dancing in our wake. Our efforts to find a picturesque anchorage for the night were only marginally successful, as Halifax Harbour was too smelly (the wind today driving the smell of the trash dump offshore towards us) and Happy Bay and Dragon Bay being too rolly. Ultimately, we anchored at St. George's, which is very pretty for an in-town harbour, but very busy. We spotted the comet here, as we have at every other anchorage on this trip.
Our last sunset at sea, off the western coast of Grenada, heading for St. George's harbour.
Dinner was grilled steaks, with Jerry's misadventures with the grill keeping us entertained. Jerry had been using rum all week as a charcoal starter. On this night, the last drops of rum drew the flames INTO the bottle, forcing Jerry to quickly toss the nearly-exploding rum bottle overboard. Janet wasn't quite sure what the difference was between the rum being used to kill fish and start fires, and good drinking rum, so she got to sample the two, learning by experience that there is, indeed, a BIG difference.
On Saturday morning, we made yet another early start, leaving St. George's before breakfast. Our next destination was L'anse Aux Epines (Prickly Bay), where Jerry cleared out of customs (he and Viv would leave Grenada soon after dropping us off) and Rick and I headed for the beach for a swim. The beach here is quite pretty,
but there is grass at the water's edge, making wading less than ideal. We had brunich on board, making mimosas, and then headed for Mt. Hartman Bay, the Moorings' base, where we said our goodbyes to Jerry and Viv and the other guests.
The Moorings complex includes the spectacular Secret Harbour Resort, where we will stay for the evening in a gorgeous over-water suite with stone walls, brick arches, tile floors and mahogany 4-poster beds. We had lunch and a swim at the pool before resting and heading for dinner at our favorite of all Caribbean restaurants, Coconuts on Grand Anse Beach. The tables at Coconuts are right on the sand, making shoes optional and creating an incredibly romantic mood. The Grenadian food isn't bad, either.
A view of our room at Moorings' Secret Harbour Resort, overlooking Mt. Hartman Bay on the southern coast of Grenada.
On Sunday, we had a late afternoon flight out, so we had the better part of the day to lounge around poolside and soak up our last rays of sun. By the time we were ready to leave, however, there was not a single taxi to be found, so the resort manager drove us to the airport himself. When we reached the airport, we found that some of our scurrying was for naught, as our flight was late. As a result, the time we had to clear immigration and customs in San Juan would barely be enough, so as soon as we arrived there, we got an immigration officer to speed us through. We were breathless by the time we reached our gate for BWI, only to find that flight would be delayed for HOURS. We finally made it home in the wee hours of the morning, confident that the next time we sail in the Caribbean, it would be on our own.
